Just two years ago, restaurant owners were telling me they were revamping their menus to include more vegan dishes, because they were sure Williamsburg was going vegan. But that was so five minutes ago…
This spring, Williamsburg is smokin’. First came Pies & Thighs, frying up southern fried chicken and smoking up beef briskets; now there’s Fatty ‘Cue, smoking whole pig, duck, clams, lambs, and Lord knows what else…meanwhile Fette Sau on Metropolitan Avenue is still going strong, selling smoked pork cheeks by the barrel.
I guess it make sense that Williamsburg should be a carnivore’s paradise; after all, who else but twenty-somethings can chow down on fatty pig and grease-laden duck with such abandonment? Certainly not the Lipitor generation. Maybe that’s why Chef Zak Pelaccio (West Village’s Fatty Crabs) and pit master Robbie Richter (Chelsea’s Hill Country) have invested in not just one, but two, big Ole Hickory smokers for their 60-seat restaurant (100 if you count the backyard). They’re expecting company. They want to take barbequing to new heights by combining Southeast Asian flavors and techniques with traditional American BBQ know-how. Richter has been competing in various barbeque fairs around the country for several years and has brought his considerable experience and expertise to this venture.
Fatty ‘Cue is in a three story old row house on the Southside. The first floor is the bar, with handsome copper-sheeted walls and romantic sconces. During dinner hours it’s narrow space is crowded and festive. The dining tables seem about three inches from the bar, great for people who enjoy pressing a lot of flesh and reveling in the raucous atmosphere. But if you want a calmer scene, ask to be seated upstairs where it’s decorated like a road house, with dark brick walls and art that looks like billboards. It’s very down home and casual, but at least you’ll be able to have a conversation.
Fatty ‘Cue gets some of their meats from Marlow & Daughters just a block away. That means your meal is not going to be cheap. A lambs rib appetizer will cost you $12; you get two chunky ribs, but it will be the best damn lamb’s rib you ever had. The roasted whole pig entrée comes with three steamed Chinese buns and pineapple chutney, but if you want veggies, you’re going to have to order that separately. Most people get the cucumber with smoked chili and brown rice vinegar or the celery bowl with hints of sea salt and yuzu; they’re more like a palette cleanser than a salad. Unlike Fatty Crab where, dishes are drenched in pungent, spicy sauces, Fatty ‘Cue is all about the meat, and how the smoking can enhance the flavor of beef, lamb, and pork. If you have quality meat, and Fatty ‘Cue does, then you’re going to get a primal eating experience. For dishes with more intense Southeast Asian flavors, try the roasted pork ribs or a bowl of Manila clams done up with bacon, bone broth, curry leaves, and chili. Though at $17 dollars, it should have a few more clams. For vegetarians, there is a ramen noodle dish with smoked mushroom broth and a rice salad with turmeric spice, ikan bilis, ginger, and herbs.
There are plenty of creative cocktails to help you cut the fat. The Chupacabra is made of Tequila, chili infused domaine de Canton, watermelon, and lime. The South 6 mixes gin or vodka, cucumber, Thai basil, lemon, ginger ale. And the Foreplay Cock Tail (and you thought Sex on the Beach was nasty) combines Aperol, yuzu, prosecco, mescal, and smoked grapefruit. Cocktails are $8 to $12 dollars and there are lots of exotic beers to choose from, like Tecate, Sly Fox Weiss, Tiger, and Hitachino White.
Fatty ‘Cue is a great place to take your friends, providing they don’t have an issue with dropping 50 or 60 bucks for a first-rate barbeque dinner.
Fatty ‘Cue
91 South 6th Street
www.fattycue.com
(718) 599-3090
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