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Archives for July 2012

The Wine Mensch Says Baby It’s Cold “Inside”— As It Should Be

July 29, 2012 By Daniel Mensch Leave a Comment

pier-wines

What is the ideal temperature to store or cellar wine?
The temperature often cited as ideal to cellar or store most wine is 55°F (13°C). The practical answer to this query was reached empirically by winemakers centuries before modern technology could scientifically confirm their prescriptions. Before the advent of electrical refrigeration, winemakers would cellar their bottled wine in underground caves. The average underground temperature in Burgundy, France, for example, is 13°C. This ideal temperature has merit beyond custom or regional appeal, which is evident in the fact that winemakers and collectors to this day store their wine in underground cellars set to the same temperature as their predecessors’.

The chemical reactions during bottle aging are myriad, occur simultaneously at varying rates and either increase or decrease depending on the temperature. The trick to properly aging wine is to keep the undesirable reactions (those that make a wine spoil faster or adversely affect taste or bouquet) to a minimum, while allowing the desirable reactions (those that gradually relax the tannins and help overall taste and alcohol integration) to occur at a preferable rate. It may seem reasonable for wineries to store their products in large refrigerators at just above freezing temperature instead of 55°F so that oxidation, the chemical force that inevitably spoils all wine, is slowed. However, the wine’s tannins, softening at a snail’s pace, may take longer than a human life span to unwind and achieve that self-actualized state of optimal “drinkability.” Last, it is important to note that as temperature increases, the rates of reactions are affected exponentially. Therefore, even minimal time at extreme heat (e.g., 90°F for several hours in your car’s trunk) can have serious detrimental effects on your wine. Hence, it is crucial to understand a wine’s provenance, as there are ample opportunities between vineyard and dining room table for heat damage to manifest.

What is the ideal temperature at which to serve wine?
The correct serving temperature for a wine is an entirely different story than storing it; there is no fixed serving temperature for reds, whites and rosés alike. If a particular wine is too warm it may taste boozy or flabby, and if it is too cold it may seem flavorless. Let’s break it down by type of wine into four strata of temperature: In general, for heavy reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, 60–65°F is good; for medium- to light-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir, a cooler 55–60°F; a still cooler 50–55°F for full-bodied whites such as Chardonnay and very light fruity reds such as Beaujolais Nouveau; and 45–50°F for light whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, rosé and sweet or sparkling whites.

If you are like me, and the majority of wine drinkers out there, you don’t own a special wine chiller set to these precise temperatures nor do you take your wine’s temperature once you’ve opened a bottle. Here is some practical advice: Wine at room temperature is never a good thing, whether white or red. In general, it has been my observation that people serve whites too cold and reds too warm. If you need to chill a bottle that is at room temperature, ConsumerReports.org advises that it takes between 5 minutes (for the heavy reds at the top of the spectrum) and 20 minutes (for the light whites at the bottom of the spectrum) in the freezer to cool to their appropriate serving temperatures. If you have a bottle of white in the refrigerator that you plan on serving with dinner, take it out and let it stand at room temperature for at least 20 minutes before the meal is ready to be served.

“Who cares?” you may ask. Does a 10-degree difference in temperature really affect my wine enjoyment? Think of it like this: If your bottle of Burgundy were a filet of salmon or your Brunello di Montalcino were a porterhouse steak, 10 degrees would be the difference between delicious and completely ruined. A lot of work (hopefully) went into crafting that beverage; treat it with respect from cellar to table and you will be rewarded!

wine thumbDaniel Mensch is co-owner of Pier Wines. He encourages anyone who wants to learn about wine to stop by and visit with him in his shop.

Pier Wines
12 No. 5th Street between Kent Avenue and the East River

The Rules of Grace—Performance art thrives at 840 Broadway 

July 29, 2012 By David LaGaccia Leave a Comment

performance artist jessica hirst

Performance artist Jessica Hirst from Spain at Grace Exhibition in April.

A giant poster of a brain tells you you’re at the right apartment. Under the screaming wheels of the elevated J train, and up the flight of stairs, is a sizable loft painted in gray.

Grace Exhibition Space, a converted loft at 840 Broadway, is one of the few performance art galleries in New York City, ridding itself of a stage and focusing on the immersion of artist and audience. With a suggested $10 donation at the door, the gallery hosts artist talks and art events every other Thursday and Friday, providing several hours of performance by both local and international artists.

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Fudged Test Scores: School teachers left holding the bag

July 22, 2012 By Phil DePaolo Leave a Comment

Stunning recent charges of cheating at PS 31 in Greenpoint and PS 257 in Williamsburg have rocked the two communities. The schools have been regarded as two of the city’s best public elementary schools. In March I wrote about the problems that have now arisen: “The best way to keep effective teachers in our public schools is to have principals who are knowledgeable educators. I have spoken to many teachers who feel today’s principals are driven solely by test scores, since principals and teachers receive merit pay based on the results of standardized tests. Well-rounded curricula, arts, and even gym time are sacrificed year-round for additional test prep time in many of today’s public schools. If we are serious about improving our schools, we must take steps to improve the conditions teachers are forced to work under, while also selecting the best teacher candidates, providing higher salaries to compete with those of suburban schools, offering better support and mentoring systems, and ending merit pay.”

It seems that teachers at IS 318 (a middle school that just won the chess championship) saw a huge drop in the test scores of students coming into the school from from PS 31 and PS 257, the same students who had higher scores from tests administered the prior year.

According to a staff member at the IS 318, who was quoted in the New York Times, “In some cases, students with perfect scores dropped from being in the 99th percentile to the 30th percentile. It was impossible.”

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The Morgan Avenue Stop: Twins, Trains, and Tacos, a taco truck grows in Morgantown

July 20, 2012 By Jason McGahan Leave a Comment

taco truck morgan avenue

Twin brothers Felipe and Sergio Gonzalez found their lucky spot near the entrance to the Morgan Avenue L. Photos by Allen Ying

If you run a successful restaurant or bar in “Morgantown”—that concrete patch of factories and factory lofts where East Williamsburg meets Bushwick—you tend to keep a low profile.

Discretion is the unspoken rule among the area’s business owners.

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Op/Ed Architectural Apartheid

July 12, 2012 By Albert Goldson Leave a Comment

While walking along the Williamsburg waterfront, have you ever felt that you were being watched? During such strolls, do you have that eerie, creepy sensation that makes the hair stand up on the back of your  neck, that even gives you a sense of foreboding? You’re not paranoid, because it’s them. It’s those waterfront glass Frankentowers—Northside Piers and The Edge—the new, gated communities that cast their menacing shadows over the nabe and shroud the local citizenry in darkness. The multiple towers comprise a colony, an unequal community within a surrounding neighborhood of distinct and incongruous architectural designs. While they’re mute, their sun-reflected, unblinking, glassy stare is a silent scream.

The new glass condo towers are the 21st century’s architectural aliens, with corporate designs that are sterile, cold, and unwelcome in an outer-borough world. Their imposing height and glass exude luxury and exclusivity, while at the same time conveying emotional detachment from the community. This is nothing less than architectural apartheid because these radical structures have a deleterious impact on the community on several levels.

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