The Natural Wine Company carries over 200 natural wines, and also exhibits art. At right of photo, co-owners Michael Andrews and Rebecca Pridmore. Photo by Allen Ying
My first encounter with natural wine was not a happy one. It was about ten years ago, when one of my colleagues finally saved enough money to buy a house in New Jersey. Having grown up in cramped apartments all over Manhattan, he was now giddy with extra real estate. He had a decent sized bucolic backyard, and a cool and damp basement, so decided to pursue a hobby befitting a country gentleman—the art of wine making.
We heard about his progress throughout that year: “I found a book on making natural wine… I ordered a personal-sized oak barrel from California… I started the fermentation process… I’m aging the bottles on an Ikea rack….” One day, a bottle mysteriously appeared on my desk. It had edgy kidnapper-style black and bold lettering on rustic brown craft paper. The cork was dutifully sealed with a wad of drippy red wax. I was so excited. I couldn’t wait to try it with dinner.
Just two years ago, restaurant owners were telling me they were revamping their menus to include more vegan dishes, because they were sure Williamsburg was going vegan. But that was so five minutes ago…